After aclimating to altitude for a few days we were ready for Cusco at 11000 feet of elevation. Our time in Peru was dedicated to Inka stuff in Cusco and Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca (near town of Puno). I categorize countries into those that generally have toilet seats and toilet paper in public bathrooms (Colombia and Peru are NOT in that category) and countries that have fully equipped bathrooms (Chile, Argentina, and Tourist parts of Brazil are in this category).
Cusco was our main base in Peru since it has its own Inka ruins (some larger and more important to the Inkas than Machu Picchu) and is a good base for a long and tiring day trip to Machu Picchu itself. Cusco (and Peru) felt calmer and safer than any of the towns in Colombia but I hear parts of Lima are scary. Due to the nice weather and low cost of living, it has a large foreign population and lots of restaurants and other amenities catering to them. I added Cusco to the places I could happily live
Cusco Valley from the Inka temple complex that overlooks it
Pisco Sour. Yummy!View from our modern AirbnbPlaza de Armas the main square
We visited some of the Inka ruins near Cusco including a temple complex much larger than Machu Picchu. These ruins were re-purposed and partially destroyed by the Spanish but they never made it to Machu Picchu so it is largely intact. Interesting the Inka were not a particular group but more a status. “Inka” means ruler or lord in the Quechuan language
Doorways had religious meaning to the Inka to separate the physical world from the spiritual worldWalls were simple or intricate depending on the need but it is crazy how well they could fit the stonesThe precision is incredible. You can’t get a knife blade in the joints. Achieved with primitive tools and no mortarKaren’s favorite part of any trip is the animals. Here she is feeding a goat, an alpaca, and a llamaHow did the Inka run a vast empire without a written language? Quipus represent numerical and other information through knot position, color, and strand arrangement. Some Quipus had hundreds of strands. Data storage Inka styleDue to the dry conditions, the Inkas mummified high status people and high status pets like this poochThe Inkas practiced skull modification techniques like this sleek beauty and some skulls show signs of succesful brain surgey
Machu-Picchu was one of our big 3 and it did not dissapoint. We did it as one long day but it is probably better to stay in Aguas Calientes to make it easier. There is a lot of repetition so our three hour slot was more than enough. The setting and the fact that the Spanish never found it is the reason it is famous (kind of like King Tut’s tomb).
The train ride from Cusco to Aguas Calientes was just OKSome nice scenery but nothing amazing and the ride was longThis is the standard picture a lot of people take which shows an overview of the siteTres Amigos (hip thrust!) Tom, Karen, MeThresholds represent boundaries between spirit world and physical world. This one was impressiveI think this is part of the observatory but it is leaving my brain quicklyInkan HouseKaren’s favorite part of Machu Picchu. The kitten that sat in her lap at lunchA llama chillin in the Citadel
Ruta del Sol is the main route between Cusco and Lake Titicaca (Puno is the town next to the lake). It has more Inka ruins (shocking I know!) some pretty scenery in the Andes and one rough looking town (Juliaca). The 8 hour bus ride was nothing spectacular but a pleasant way to cover the distance. It was a bit of a mash-up of smaller sites
Storms coming over the AndesPretty Scenery“Sistine Chapel” of the Andes. I don’t think so but it was ornate. Bonus points if you notice something odd about the photoIt is ornate in and out. Karen had a Coati-pooped coffee nearby. Look it up!Torito de Pucara. Good luck charms on almost every roof. We stopped by the factory where they are madeInka grain store houses. On the left is a restored roofed oneInka step pyramidsHectic dirty Juliaca not our fav
Lake Titica was the most interesting place we went in Peru. It does not get much weirder than people living on man made islands constructed from Totora reed roots. We stayed at an Airbnb Uro (reed island) owned and run by a family and it was very cool. From the composting toilets, solar hot water, and 2-liter Pepsi bottle bed warmers, it was all an adventure. The host was very knowledgable and that made the experience awesome. Karen and I even tried a lake banana (more like a cabbage from the totora reed) and did not get sick (Tom wisely deferred)
Brisk boat ride. Tom wrapped in a colorful blanket. Our host Juan called me a crazy gringo since I wore shortsCity of Puno in the background. It looks lower than the lake but that cannot beOur Uro home on the lakeTotora reeds to the horizon. The root bundle can be 3-4 feet thick. Families harvest roots after storms and weave them on to their islandSolar water heater and power panelsOur two rooms were to the right. It was very comfortable but spongy when you walked aroundOriginally the lake people lived on these boats but later switched to island livingWe even saw a little museum of native birds made from reedsTres Amigos after breakfastThe owner’s grand daughter, cute little Charlotte. I like to think I taught her to make smiley faces on the window in the moisture from her breath.
